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Alternative Sanitizers

Charge & Release
Switching From Biguanide to Bromine In Spa
Biguanide In A Spa
Spa Biguanide & Foaming
Hydrogen Peroxide As A Sanitizer
Spa Ozonator Chemistry
Ionization Products / Ozonators

Charge & Release
Q:
We recently purchased a spa. We love it and really aren't having any trouble with the chemicals. I do have a question though.

We seem to be using quite a lot of release. Our representative told us to use 1 oz. per use. Since the spa is new we are using it alot. We were wondering would it be more cost effective to use bromine tablets? And if so what kind do we use?
A:
Bromine tablets can be used in conjunction with Spa Clear Charge and Release. The tablets are slow dissolving and have a lowering affect on the pH. It is important to test the water daily and adjust accordingly.

The real advantage of Spa Clear Charge and Release is that if more bromine is needed, because of bather demand or water conditions, all you have to do is add more release. Spa Clear or SUN Bromine tablets can be utilized in a floating feeder to help maintain the level at 3-5 PPM. Supplement with Charge and Release to help keep it there.

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Switching From Biguanide to Bromine In Spa
Q:
I've been using spa biguanide for six months and decided I do not like it. Someone told me it is very hard to switch back to bromine. They couldn't give me any details. Do you know about this? The instructions that come with my filter said if I use spa biguanide, I need to use their filter cleaner. They say the particles that are trapped by the filter makes a gray sticky film which can only be removed with their filter cleaner. It reads: "If TSP or any other type of cleaner is used prior to stripping the film, the cleaner and the gray film will combine to form a gum-like substance. Once this occurs, the substance cannot be removed from the media and the filter cartridge must be replaced." I am wondering if after cleaning the filter with their filter cleaner, will my filter be ready to accept bromine again? Should I soak it in a bleach solution afterwards and let it dry?
A:
Welcome to the club. I don't like the stuff either.

It is simple to switch to bromine. They really don't want you to switch.

Add about 1 pound of Spa Clear Oxy-Shock or Sun Brite for the spa. This non-chlorine shock will destroy the biguanide. Start using bromine immediately. As soon as you can maintain a bromine level of 3-5 PPM, all of the biguanide is gone. The water may discolor as the biguanide is being decomposed. If, necessary add more of the non-chlorine shock.

The filter cartridge problem is new to me. I would soak the cartridge in a 50% solution of water and liquid bleach. This should destroy all of the organic waste and debris. Hose off before replacing.

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Biguanide In A Spa
Q:
I have been a spa owner since last August and, although my dealer strongly recommended biguanide, I decided to start out using what appears to be more or less the industry standard. - bromine with an ozonator. The routine has been fairly hassle free although it can be a little tricky keeping a steady bromine level - it seems to bounce around. Also, the water is somewhat drying to the skin and sometimes my wife complains about the bromine odor, although I do not find it particularly objectionable. We get no scum buildup and only minor foaming when the air jets are on.

My wife wants to try biguanide but am not quite convinced of the advantages so I have a few questions maybe you can help me with:

1. The biguanide books say to test weekly but if you have an ozonator you should test every 4 days. With bromine and ozone I test once a week and things have been pretty smooth. The recommendation seem to suggest that I would pay a penalty for having an ozonator with biguanide. Do you have any insight?

2. Evidently biguanide causes more foaming and scum buildup such that additional anti foam and scum products are recommended. I have not had these problems with bromine. Do you have any insight?

3. I have read several places where people feel that shocking with hydrogen peroxide can be dangerous. I realize that the concentration (7.5% ??) of the shock is not all that high, though. What are your thoughts?

4. It seems that the significant advantages of biguanide over bromine are that it doesn't affect pH (hasn't been a particular problem with bromine), it feels better on the skin (maybe less drying on the skin than bromine?) and it sticks around independent of bather load (that is, I could put 6 people in the spa without depleting the sanitizer as would happen with bromine). Is this a fair assessment and can you elaborate?
A:
If it ain't broke, why do you want to fix it??

The bromine tablets that you are adding are naturally acidic. Add to this the affects of bather load and carbon dioxide absorption and you have the reason that the pH drops over time. Ozone does produce an odor. Could that be what you're smelling? The fact that you have an ozonator means that you have greater latitude in the maintenance of the bromine level. You have two systems that back each other up.

1. The biguanide level can be depleted by oxidation. That's why chlorine, bromine and non-chlorine shock are not recommended with biguanide. Ozone functions as an oxidizer in the spa application.

2. Biguanide is a foam producing material. There is no debate about this fact. It will add to the foam level (not a good thing) and will possibly cause some scum formation.

3. The hydrogen peroxide used with biguanide is a dangerous chemical to handle. It should not be confused with the drug store variety. The danger is not in how it reacts in the water, but in the hazards of handling the material.

4. Biguanide does have less of an effect on the pH. It does make the skin feel soft by coating the skin with a monomolecular coating of the product. It sticks to people, like fabric softener sticks to cotton. Biguanide cannot oxidize the wastes contributed by those 6 bathers -- bromine and/or ozone can.

If you get the feeling that I prefer ozone and bromine you're right. I get lots of e-mail on the subject. There is a lot in the archives on the subject. Oh yes, did I mention that biguanide will cost more.

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Spa Biguanide & Foaming
Q:
I am a new spa owner. The dealer started us on Baqua Spa products. We are having problems with scum and foaming. We have used defoamer and it's ok for a couple of days. The pH and all other checks are ok. Is there a better product line of chemicals that we would be better off using?
A:
It is not uncommon for a spa to develop foam. This is caused by the reaction of body oils and the natural alkalinity of the water. This reaction results in the formation of a soap, which in turn leads to foaming and scum formation.

Antifoam can help in the control. Maintaining a calcium hardness of 150-200 PPM can help lower the tendency of the water to support foaming. This is true of all spas, regardless of the sanitizers used.

The use of biguanide as a sanitizer brings with it another problem. The chemical is known to cause foaming. The aeration of the water only adds to the volume.

There are other sanitizing alternatives to consider, that do not add to the foaming. The Sun and Spa Clear Spa Chemical lines offer several choices of bromine and chlorine sanitizers for use in spas.

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Hydrogen Peroxide As A Sanitizer
Q:
I have a 400 gal hot tub that has an ozonator. I am using 3% hydrogen peroxide in place of bromine or chlorine as a sanitizer. I have trouble keeping the water clear after about 2 weeks. Do you have any suggestions?
A:
The hydrogen peroxide that you are adding is not functioning as a sanitizer. It is probably accomplishing very little beyond what the ozonator is doing.

Try using a bromine product as a backup for the ozonator. A small residual of bromine will probably solve the problem without chemical odors.

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Spa Ozonator Chemistry
Q:
I have a 325 gallon hot tub with a ozonator, there is also a sanitizer pouch (looks like kitty litter) on top of the ozone cartridge in the ozone generator water tube. Besides for this and weekly shocks, do I need any other sanitizer?

After draining and refilling tub post 10 days I have a 2" high dark water line on tub , how can I remove this, and does the tub need to be redrained? Also after adding a PH HOLD product and non chlorine shock the fiberglass surface has a fine gritty feel to it which can be removed with rubbing your hand in over the area, but it seems to come right back. The only other chemicals I use, except for ones noted already, are an enzyme tx and a clarifier on a weekly basis.
A:
It is widely recommended that spa utilizing Ozonators make use of another sanitizer systems as a backup. Its really good advice.

I don't know what's in the product that you are describing as kitty litter. It may not be a sanitizer. The Spa Clear or Sun for the Spa lines of spa chemicals include several choices that are suitable as backup for ozone.

I would guess that you have hard water and that adding the pH HOLD product may have caused the precipitation of calcium minerals. I am basing this on your description and not on specific information as to the formulation of pH HOLD.

Some products of this type should not be used in hard water areas. Check the label. If this is the case you might have to replace some water to stop further precipitation. Make sure the pH is 7.2-7.8 and that the total alkalinity is 80-120 PPM. You might also consider emptying the spa.

The dark line could be due to several reasons: accumulation of oily residues, deposition of minerals or chemical residues. Try cleaning in with an acidic solution. After refilling consider adding Spa Clear Min-Quest or Sun Mineral Control to help prevent future staining.

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Ionization Products / Ozonators
Q:
What can you tell me about using silver-copper ion generation as a means of purifying the water in my hot tub? What is the best alternative to bromine if one wants to avoid chemicals?
A:
Ionization products are an alternative means of sanitizing spa water. Ozonators are another popular method. In both cases, some backup sanitizer must be used.

In this capacity, bromine would be my choice because of reduced odor.

Ionization units require backup sanitizer/oxidizer in order to oxidize organic wastes. In the case of the Ozonators, it is necessary in order to provide a level sanitizer for those periods when ozone is not being produced.

These alternative methods, can reduce the quantity of bromine used, but do not eliminate bromine requirement completely.

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